Highlights for the year on the Bloomfield Track

From south going north, but in no particular order, these include the wildlife, notably the many cassowaries and crocs which are easily seen right along the Track. The sightings for protracted periods of up to five cassowary families around the Daintree Coast region has been an absolute highlight for locals and travellers.

Then there has been Emmagen Creek with its running water, upstream views, floral diversity and swimming holes - all packed into one small area and are rightly popular at any time of the day.Let’s not forget the view from Donavon’s across to the Range and back towards Emmagen, which is quite spectacular and instructive in understanding the weather of the area, while a bit further along the Track is Stingray Bay, which is also wonderful - especially at low tide. Woobadda Creek is another top swimming spot, with its fascinating birdlife - Metallic Starlings, Kingfishers, Pigeons, Doves and the occasional cassowary.

One of the year’s “highlights” was actually the one-and-only lowlight - the damage to the Bloomfield River ford crossing in February. Not only was it physically disastrous, it also separated the Wujal Wujal communities who live on both sides of the river and damaged businesses and tourism between Cape Trib and Cooktown. The response from local and state governments was strong and prompt enough to be seen as a highlight. The passenger ferry from the Department of Communities and then Cairns Council extending the hours of operation was much appreciated and made a difficult time more bearable. (No assistance, however, from the Commonwealth for businesses affected, was a downer!).Two resident crocs, Spartaca (three metres) and Brutus (five metres) have given many travellers a great natural experience, when they chose to grace us with their presence, which was pretty often.

Another highlight has beenThe Wujal Wujal Falls which always flow with force, beauty and mysticism. How could anyone live in or visit the region and not take the time to visit them, especially with a Walker family guided tour? The waterfall itself, the changing lighting, the scenic backing and the cultural significance are all there - just great! The track up to the Wujal Falls has now become a sealed and widened road and is a joy to drive along and will encourage more travellers along the Track and into the area. Again, part of a good local planning.

The opening of the wonderful new Arts centre at Wujal in January was another. After a slow start it was a major coup for the area and the Wujal community. The excellent quality of the works, the emerging artists and the quality of the building should be a springboard for the future of the community. While it is a significant business and employment driver, it is sometimes difficult to understand government priorities

when unemployment in the community seems to be above 90 per cent. Much more needs to be done.

Continuing with the highlights, there was Archer Point, a majestic and world class

panorama. The feeling is different at low or high tide, and both are wonderful. Contrasting colours, soldier crabs, flotsam and seeds spread out along the high tide marks and the mangroves and coconut palms themselves all give lots of dimension to the spot. Spotting whales, rays or turtles from the Lighthouse, then driving or

walking back to unfolding views, strolling along the beach or dipping your toes in the water, (being careful of course) show many facets of this special place.

Keating’s Lagoon, on the southern outskirts of Cooktown, good anytime, is at its very best for about eight months, especially through and after the wet, with reeds, grasses, Magpie Geese, Whistling and other Ducks, water lilies, a bird hide and lots of walks. And there are crocs as well when the water is up.

Grassy Hill Lookout at Cooktown has had its first full year of operation. The views are just sensational and rank with any around the world, combining the Coral Sea and reefs with mountain and town views through a 360 degree panorama.

The James Cook Museum is an enormous attraction, especially to anyone with an interest in the history and traditions of the past. It is a good insight into early contact between the Traditional Owners and the Europeans. The sections on Cook, Indigenous perspectives, early gold rush days and the major impact of Chinese gold-seekers and settlers are most commented upon by tourists.

The three-in-one Nature’s PowerHouse Museum, Botanic Gardens and Vera-Scarth

Johnson Gallery are refreshing on a hot day, tasty when the fruits are maturing, thoroughly educational and very, very loved. The gradual upgrading of the Gardens is by itself well worth re-visiting from time to time if you get the chance.

That’s the twelve. Please enjoy the Christmas season, be relatively sober and tidy, and have a great 2012.

Remember, Christmas is a time for very high tides (up to three metres) and the Crossing is okay to cross at around 2.3 metres on the tide chart, but that’s assuming there has been no big rains. This makes the beaches absolutely sensational at lower tides, and the Bloomfield River Crossing impassable for a few hours each day on a predictable, but variable pattern.

So time your Bloomfield River Crossing with the help of a tide chart and talk to locals before trekking along the Track. Finally, be extra mindful of big rains.

Happy travelling and happy Christmas.

Mike D’Arcy

D’Arcy of Daintree 4WD Tours

www.darcyofdaintree.com.au

Ph: +61 7 4098 9180.